To get to Alonissos you must first fly
to Skiathos which is more populated and more touristy. Ferries or Hydrofoils are readily
available from Skiathos harbour to take you on to the more easterly islands of Skopelos
and Alonissos. Hydrofoils are quicker and more frequent but the ferries give a real
flavour of Greek Island life as they chug between ports and manoeuvre themselves onto
impossibly small quay-sides to off load tourists along with delivery trucks, motor bikes
and local people.
I think Patitiri harbour is a bit of a shock after the
two and a half hour cruise from the bustling waterfront of Skiathos, through the magical
bay of Skopelos town. It looks more sort of, industrial and it took me a little while to
appreciate how lovely it really is. I think they have allowed some dubious building
designs to dominate the landscape and of course, it has, until more recently, been a
working fishing port designed for practicalities rather than to please the eye of the
likes of me.
The island is about 12 miles long and less than 2 miles
wide at its widest part. Most of the populated areas are in the south and south eastern
corner with the occasional hamlet dotted up and down the coast. Like most islands the
harbour town of Patitiri hosts the majority of shops, Taverna’s, bike and car hire
and information centres. It was always fun to sit at one of the quay side Taverna’s
and watch the day trip ferries come in from the other islands. Large crowds of
multinational tourists would quickly disembark eager to soak up all that Patitiri has to
offer. As one, they would troop to the left of the town looking in the handful of shops
before realising that the town had run out after about 200 metres. They would turn, as
one, and walk back to the other end of the town and up the main street to the
top…..before realising that there too, the town disappears into residential areas
after about half a mile. It really is a small place.
At this point most visitors work out that there is a bus
to the old town, or village or Chora, whichever you prefer. Or they call it the Castro
meaning castle. Very clever really as everyone likes a castle. Tourists spend hours
looking for it but never find it because what they call the Castro is just the highest bit
of the village. Still, if it gets you up there…..
It’s a 10 minute run up to the old town on the bus
and you can’t go to Alonissos without visiting this enchanting and captivating place.
The bus is cheap and sticks rigidly to the times at the bus stop. People tend not to study
this and soon find that they have missed the last bus for the afternoon. This gives them
the option of staying in the village for a few more hours or walking back to Patitiri on
the old path. Most people stay though often many of the taverna’s will have closed
for the siesta. There’s usually one or two who will take your order and it is bound
to be too hot for a 25 minute walk.
This wonderful hilltop town was destroyed in the
1950’s by earthquakes leading the local population to relocate to the less attractive
concrete dwellings behind Patitiri and Votsi just around the bay. The village has enjoyed
a rebirth over the past 10 years as shrewd locals and Northern Europeans smitten by the
allure of the steep, twisted paths and fascinating houses stacked upon eachother, have
moved in to rebuild many of the ruined houses. 80% of the village has been renovated to
some extend though access is only available on foot or by mule so don’t expect all
mod cons. Most houses have electricity now but water on such a hill top village is at a
premium and real shortages occur in the heat of the summer.
As the summer unfolds more and more little cafés and
taverna’s spring up around the village. The best bar has to be Nikkos bar half way up
the steps to the top, just past the antique shop. Nikkos is lovely and has two great
assets. Firstly, he has the best selection of whiskeys on the island if not in all the
Sporadic islands. But more than this, he has the best taste in music. He is the original
DJ and takes great pleasure in steering the mood of the evening by selecting his own
favourite pieces from classical, jazz and blues to Santana, Rolling Stones, Billie
Holiday, whatever he fancies. But don’t ask for requests. It’s Nikkos show.
At the right time of year Alonissos is great for walking
and organised routes are arranged from Patitiri or you can just follow the many of road
paths using the less than perfect maps.
There are great beaches. Some will say that
Kokinacastro, up the east coast, is the finest. I only went there once and it was too busy
for me. I like the two beaches nearest the old town. Both are a good hike down from the
top but you can hire bikes if you must. The roads are not great so this is not for the
inexperienced rider.
Megalo Mortya is the beach where Jane worked. It is
quite a small beach but is very pleasant if you like shingle. (I prefer it to sand as it
doesn’t get everywhere). If you know anything about Greece you’ll know that the
sea is beautiful and this is definitely the case here. Sun loungers and parasols are
available for hire and the three taverna’s offer a range of food and drinks to keep
you on the beach all day. You’ll need to stay until the sun goes down if you’re
walking as the climb back to the village takes some getting used to.
My favourite beach is on the other side of the headland,
accessible from the other side of the village. It also involves a 30 minute walk down
(allow longer for the return trip) and there are several ways you could go, all of them
delightful in my opinion.
Don’t expect much when you get there as there are
no facilities at all. No bars, no sun loungers but very often, no people or at least very
few. Unofficially it is generally accepted that nude sun bathing is popular here though
occasionally a local may express displeasure at naked bodies (ignore them and they’ll
go away…). We spent hours on this beach. It is a lovely place to snorkel and hunt for
urchin shells or just sit for hours chatting to people you know or meet when your there.
It’s a bit of an exclusive club and rightly so. If you are prepared to walk all that
way, carrying your own food and refreshments, then walk all the way back up, you deserve
to be in an exclusive club. In the busiest times it fills up with people exploring all the
islands beaches but they tend not to stay long so stick with it if this your thing.
Whenever I read about Alonissos I am informed of the
nature reserve and the seals. I’m sure it is wonderful but it is not open to the
public and I never visited so I can’t report on it.
Further up the island is the cute little harbour of
Steni Valla. There are a few Taverna’s and it’s a nice place to watch the yachts
come and go. The road that stretches the length of island is in pretty good shape and it
is a nice ride up into the forest covered hills. But there is nothing at the top of the
island worth seeing as far as I know. The North West coast line is really nice and there
are some gorgeous coves and beaches that many tourists never find. The dirt tracks are
treacherous and it can be quite a hairy journey on a moped.
We had a strange old summer on Alonissos but I will
always treasure our time there and the people we met. Our friend Kevin pointed out one day
how easy it is, when you’re set on getting too and from beaches or shops, just how
beautiful this island is. You can stand at the bar on the top of the village and see the
whole island stretched out before you and it is magnificent. If you read this stuff
I’ve written and it whets your appetite I guarantee you’ll love it because that
will mean you see things a bit like I do. It is not a conventional Greek
Island……it’s better!! |
