1.6.95 The search for accommodation and jobs

There's a bit of frost in the air and I don't mean the weather! (well obviously). We all seem to have experienced bits of niggle from our host Theos. Phil puts it down to things getting lost in the language barrier but the rest of use are far more bitchy. Our Theos certainly isn't as laid back as we remember him and Marlene (who's been here several times and doesn't have a bad word for anybody) says even she's noticed a change. He has told us all off about various silly little things like not folding down the sunshade (guilty), leaving our key in the door (guilty even though Phil and Jean were here) and today he gave Jean the hump by suggesting that we'd over fed his cat at our barbi which was just not the case.

There are some other interesting people in the apartments above us. There's the consultant (in what we don't know - could be hair!) and her hubby (we assumed) who is a typical Geoff Boycott (no offence intended to Geoff but you know what I mean) type who, when the rep said for them to "pop into town" to her office replied "Bollocks" demonstrating conclusively that he did hot concur with her suggestion!

Then there's the middle aged carpenter and his wife (who does all the packing and forgot the camera - her fault then) from London (noticeably) who now live in Cornwall. He was sick on the second day. He thinks of food poisoning - we know he didn't wear a hat on his bald head in the hot sun. They hired a scooter and she spent most of the day on it with bare (white) legs and no sun cream. Consequently she can hardly walk, with bright red legs. She hopes it won't peel or the pain will be in vain. And the Scottish family with two young kids. They seem really nice. He went to college in Cardiff and is a management training type - she's a child psychologist. And of course lovely Bill and Marlene, farmers from Newcastle way. Bill wears the trousers (and makes the decisions) and is seemingly racist, genderist and probably every other ist there is, much to the quiet annoyance of Jean who is really into 'Women's studies' and quotes 'right-on writers' at will. A stunning mix of people that are all very good company and for all their differences get on pretty well together. (put them/us all in a lift between floors for a few hours and I wouldn't be so sure) We said good-bye to Velanio beach at 7.00pm - the wind, searing across it masking the power of the sun still sinking slowly behind the hills. We probably won't see this beach again. Skopelos doesn't have the same magnetism for us now.

3.6.95 ( Saturday)

Well! Who's noticed? This is the first time I've missed a day of the diary! I think there are excuses. The 2nd of June was our last day with Laskarina. It's no good! They can't be there to hold our hands forever! Still, It would have been nice if they hadn't cocked up our taxi to town. We were meant to be sharing a ride in with Phil and Jean but when Homer came he had orders to Geoff Boycott and wife with P + J. Cigar Cigar! (slowly slowly). But having waited an hour for him to return we ended up accepting the offer of a lift with Fran Peter in his hire jeep. Consequently we just missed seeing off P + J on the Dolphin. Anyway we checked in to our room above the Ecstasy bar and felt quite pleased with ourselves. It really is a very nice place. From the front there's just a door next to the bar with stairs going up to an office/lounge with a fridge for our (and other guests) grub. But going through the back of this room, past the communal kitchen, it opens out into a lovely courtyard with cute tables and chairs (blue), orange and lemon trees with several rooms off. Up more stairs past another rooftop garden lined with a whole range of cacti, which looks down onto the bars and Tavernas below, leading to a wooden, almost Tudor looking balcony where our room is, overlooking the courtyard. The whole place is done out in old, stripped and waxed pine, pine floors and windows and in our room the ceiling is high with old original oak beams. It's small, with just enough room for two beds, a loo, sink and shower, desk, table and us. It's a bit enclosed and our window only opens into the stairs of the courtyard so it's a hot room but we do have a fan. More of this later!! (suspense bit!) We shopped and had a drink and saw Bill and Marlene. Marlene said she would like to buy one of my tapes. Good girl!

At 3.30 - bang on time, the Dolphin arrived with Peg and Dave and their friends Laurie and Yvonne. They were travel weary but it was nice to meet them before they were whisked away on a bus. We walked over to their pad at 6pm. (a bit more up market than our usual standard - lounge and all, mind you I'm not too keen on the area).

Peg and Dave have colds and seem really tired after their travelling but it was great to see them. It was dead exciting getting mail from the Shipps and a card from Cathy too. No real news. Loads of crap about our benefit claims for the brief time we were unemployed before we left, but still no income support cheque. Lucky we weren't relying on it! We met Laurie and Yvonne who were excited about their holiday but Jane just wanted to talk with Peg and Dave and was really pleased to see friends even though we’ve only been away 2 weeks. We walked into town with them all and took them to Andyandra's which we haven't been to this time but I remembered from four years ago. Bill and Marlene walked in later. Bill pretended to walk out again when he saw us. I guess it is a small town. Later I sold my first tape in Greece (to B + M) for 1500dr. Result. Also P + D + L + Y insisted on paying for our meal which was really nice of them. I enjoyed the meal though it was standard Greek grub. Aubergine salad, meat balls and chips. Jane had pork chops.

They were pretty knackered then so we left them to it and went back to our room. (Remember the earlier suspense bit?) On entering we checked for the effectiveness of our mozzie exterminator (as you do) with the lights off so as not to let in any unwanted insects. I saw about a dozen flying ants on the curtain and felt things crawling on my feet. We put the light on to see a busy army of ants, mostly small but some flying, and lots of them. Yuch!

I tried to find the owner to no avail, but did find a large can of bug killing spray which I blasted the room with. We had to leave it for a bit. There were dying ants on my pillow - YUCH! but it did seem to sort most of them out. The thought of sleeping in a room crawling with little things is not pleasant. We decide to break out our mozzy net, (which I'll call Annette). I threw a string over a beam and we spread it over the whole bed, tucking it into the sides for maximum protection. One flying ant was even trying to push itself through the netting like some crazed killer or the Terminator or something - gross - thankfully Annette was very effective and despite us both looking at each other with that "what the hell are we doing here" look, we both slept quite well. Jane found it noisy but I find the gentle buzz of the street quite relaxing. it was hot though! We slept with just a single sheet barely covering us.

The next day our previous thoughts of "we're not staying another night " were quelled after Jane had spoken to Andyandra (no relation) about it. She said it had happened in another room too and not to worry she would spray it all today. This now seems to have been done effectively though tonight is Last chance saloon!

Tried to be adventurous today by walking up through the wonderful maze of a town looking for the beaches on the east of the island. But hills, heat and failing optimism about potential beach quality soon led us back to town to a scruffy pile of stones, Reeboks, coke cans and bin bags they call a beach, just off the harbour. Pretty gross - though blow me, after an hour there were ten people there!!

I did suggest to Jane that we head back to Alonissos before Tuesday but she wants to stick to our plan. I'm so laid back now it really makes little difference.

Saw the Welsh contingent again at lunch time, who are getting into the swing of things. We left them to explore the Stafilos while we looked at the harbour bay beach near them. Dirty! Dirtier than I've seen a Greek harbour. Though in fairness they are doing a lot of reconstruction in the harbour which may not help. We also looked at the Del Sol swimming pool which actually appealed to me until we found it to be a Thompson Holiday hang out with the small pool surrounded by Brits of varying shapes and sizes who looked as if they had no plans of moving from that pool all holiday. We braved a quick dip in the gloomy harbour sea rather than the pool.

We're eating in tonight. Omelette and fried little potatoes then we'll meet P + D + L + Y for a drink.

(later).

They had a meal at the Goodwill Gardens (or something) which is where the Laskarina rep does her welcome meeting (sales pitch). They were just finishing when we arrived. Laurie was commenting on how the waiters never clear the dishes !!! By now Jane and I are slowed right down to Greek Island pace and advised Laurie to chill out. Yvonne got very panicky at the size of the bill. It took some time for her to work out they'd ordered more expensive retzina and food and had dessert. After two weeks we already find ourselves unmoved by little things like this. We went back to their rooms and played Yatsi which was fun.

4.6.95

Last night in the room we did still have a few flying ants though we were fine under Annette apart from the slimy worm thing (Jane’s convinced it was a snake) I found under my pillow!! This has to be just bad luck but it makes you nervous. So, we decided to ask to swap rooms which we did this morning. The room is the same size but downstairs off the little courtyard. It has a tiled floor and is also much cooler. Andyandra, who's rooms they are, has been really nice though I think she thinks we're a bit neurotic.

We got a bus to Lymnari today. The bus stops at the tiny harbour village of Agnandos then we had to walk further up the road, high over the bay and follow the rougher (but better than four years ago) track down to the beach. We'd not realised we had to walk 'cos four years ago we went there on a moped though I don't think we stayed on the beach as we couldn't remember it. And what a gorgeous beach it is. White sand, calm, shallow, clear blue sea with minimum rocks making easy access to the sea. We could see why Bill and Marlene came here most days and sure enough - they arrived. We see them everywhere. They say they miss us as their new neighbours just aren't the same. Two men are in one room which presents a challenge to Bill who assumes they're gay. He's never met a gay person so this could be quite an education for him!

As we lay on the beach a couple arrived and began settling on the beach next to us. Bugger me if it wasn't Pete who we'd met here four years ago with Kay and Simon. That had been so cool ‘cos Jane had told her old school friend, Kay, about our holiday and they had booked pretty much the same time. The time we had with them and their friends probably played a big part in us falling for these islands. We recognised him right away though he had that look of 'who the hell is that' on his face. Later he admitted that his first impression was that, at a glance, Jane looked a bit like an ex-partner of about ten years and I must be her new partner. Apparently they'd not parted amicably so he had a bit of a chill. A few quick prompts and we were clicking back to events four years ago. He is now married and was with his French wife Cecille and we spent several hours chatting with them both. Consequently we were in the sun a bit longer than we normally would be and we both have a few burned bits on our bodies. Nothing major though - a bit annoying 'cos we've been very careful. We met up with P,D,L + Y later and eventually went to Molos for a meal. Laurie was standing with us on the front when Theos walked past. We introduced them and Laurie, inexplicably, pretended not to be English, which was all rather embarrassing for a moment. I think Laurie may have thought he was English though I still didn’t get the joke. Nice meal anyway.

Drinks in a bar on the front. Dave bought a round 'cos he just realised he and Peg have now paid off their mortgage so a celebration was called for. (No news on our flat back home which is still vacant and costing us a fortune the longer it’s empty).

Laurie phoned home for rugby results - Wales are out of the World cup having lost to Ireland 24-23. England convincingly beat the Western Samoans 42 -24. Damn!

5.6.95 (Mon)

Good sleep, cool room, no ants, no beasts. We had a really lazy day 'cos.....we just fancied it! and 'cos we had a few burned bits from yesterday. We enjoyed strolling round the town and Jane took some photos of streets 'cos she thought she ought to . I'm sure they'll be artistic mistresspieces. I then read my book all day as it was just completely gripping. "Don't say a word" by Andrew Klavan. Couldn't put it down.

We walked to Villa Haran to say good-bye to P, D, L + Y. They're getting a jeep tomorrow so we won't see ' em. Jane cooked tea and I had a sing in our room and some German guests here clapped each song which was nice. Later one of them said she really liked my singing and asked if I am a professional!! I told her about my tapes and she promptly coughed up 1500dr. for one. "I must have one!" Result!

We met up with Bill and Marlene for drinks later (Bill insisted on paying which was really kind of him). Bob and Frances joined us for a while telling us how they jumped on a boat full of Greek people for a day trip. No conversation but good fun apparently.

Bill laughed when we said we were keeping diaries and I'd written fifty-four pages 'cos he said we never do anything - it is a bit strange! It was quite sad saying good-bye to them. We took their address and will definitely write to them. We spent a while before sleep just looking down on the street from our roof. I could watch people all day.

6.6.95 (Tues) Back to Alonissos

We packed up our stuff by 11am. Jane went out to get some things to make a bit of lunch as we had to be out from our rooms by noon. I wrote out our first Eurocheque (bit of a thrill there ) for the last four nights. Andyandra thought we'd agreed 5,500 per. night. I reminded her it was 5,000. (no reduction for the ant invasion then!!! Still - we were happy with how it was handled). She agreed on 20,000. Then we just kind of mooched about town sitting on comfy chairs outside bars, reading yesterdays guardian and the sad rugby reviews. My back is really hurting today. I'm not sure if it's anything to do with certain activities that took place last night or if I did it while picking up my ruc-sac which I now admit contains too many bloody clothes.

Anyway, we didn't do much but I actually enjoyed our day. Lots of people-watching. We walked right out on to the end of a sea wall which stretches right out to the middle of the bay. Nice and breezy there and great for watching the inexperienced sailors trying to park their holiday launches.

As we waited near the harbour for our 6.25pm ferry Pete and Cecille came off a flying Dolphin. We had a quick drink with them which was nice 'cos we thought we'd missed them. So they waved us off. We like being waved off. We figure it's always nicer to be waved off ....pathetic really.

When we got to Alonissos just after 7pm. It’s a new experience arriving on a Greek Island in the evening with no pre planned accommodation. We looked for a taxi. A man on the harbour asked (we guess) if we wanted rooms. We said we wanted to go to Votsi so he whistled to a guy who'd just picked two people up in a pick up truck. With no dialogue between us he indicated we put our bags in the back and climb in which we did. Another Greek man (Emanuel from Athens) also negotiated a lift and we all wondered where or what we were going to.

Of course we hadn't recognised that the driver was Marias' father and he took us right to the rooms we'd stayed in before. It was all a bit confusing. Our presence created a bit of a stir and we'll never know quite what went on. Emanuel was shown straight to a room but we were kept waiting. Very odd. anyway eventually we were shown to the budget, shared kitchen rooms and Yorgos dropped his original quote of 5,000 to 4,000 a night. Odd few moments there! I don’t think they could get their heads round Laskarina tourists returning a week later. Maybe they thought we wanted the posh rooms?? Did shopping, ate tinned meatballs and .yep - pasta then went to the Taverna. It was great 'cos Layla was there with her husband, Steve, who we'd heard so much about and also their daughter Jenny. All really welcoming and friendly (and a bit pissed actually - not Jenny) Jenny is lovely - she got on great with Jane and teased her with Greek words that Jane did not know. Nice!… yes, nice to be back!!! Bed at 11 - Alarm set for 8 am. to hunt down a home!

7.6.95

A full day (s**t!! 20 pages to write! It's bloody hard work keeping this diary thing going). We were in Patitiri by 9am. Asked for accommodation in a few obvious places (except the accidental walking into the Greek Island Holidays office [very expensive]) He said he had many high quality properties… that we could not afford. I think he made a few assumptions about us which were, of course, absolutely right.

The holiday rep who shares an office with the Laskarina rep did have an idea of someone who had a place in the old village that should be cheap but he couldn't get hold of him. Try tomorrow! We got a warm welcome from Bongo Marty who we went to see at his job renting out mopeds. He wanted to check out some places for us in the village so we arranged to meet him there at 2pm. We saw 'Geoff Boycott' and his wife who we spoke to then vowed to avoid until they leave. Weird people!

Had a swim off the rocks round the harbour then hung out for the 12.30 bus. We felt good being here and, for no concrete reasons, we felt reassured that we'd done right to come back here.

Saw Janet (Laskarina) who says she will keep alert to rooms and jobs possibilities.

Had a drink and a salad with Layla up in the old village. Met Klaus, a Dutchman who's here for three months. He'd heard of a room so we went off to investigate. The room had no facilities but a woman shopping in the shop we were asking in said she had rooms. Renata owns the gift shop and apparently from her books, several properties. She showed us a lovely house in the old village on the side of the hill looking down over the valley. All we'd need ....at 6,000 a day which is near £18 a day (£400ish a month). No thank you.

We met Marty who'd got our message from Layla. We walked down to meet his friends Alice (who owns a house there - forty something and retired already from publishing!) and Andy who is a singer, guitarist, tabla playing type. Spent all afternoon with them chatting about accommodation possibilities and jamming through the songs they've been working on. Andy has a repertoire of some two hundred songs (covers, though I've only heard half of them. He does lots of funny, novelty songs, very well but not really my scene. Still, I'm open to the possibilities of us working out a package of some of my songs, Andy doing his funny bits then a set of covers - but we'll see.

They suddenly thought of their pal Gareth who has an empty house in the village. The village is very old and is built right on the top of a high hill looking down the island with stunning views down the steep drops to the sea on the other side. God knows how they built it. Houses are right on top of one another separated by narrow pavements and dusty tracks. In the 50s or 60s it was apparently hit by an earthquake and many houses were destroyed. Now lots of them are still derelict while others are restored by Greeks. Many of them were bought by Germans, Dutch, French and Brits within the last ten years when they were really cheap. So it's an odd, enchanting but sort of empty place as many people only come for a few weeks a year. And of course Laskarina have quite a few houses there. Anyway we went to see Gareth’s house. Very appealing, right in the heart of the village. Outside loo and shower on the side of the house with a kitchen and small lounge with stone benches then a ladder going up to the large bedroom. Unsophisticated and authentic but for the recent addition of electricity and a calor gas hob. If it's cheap enough, which I just don't think it will be, it would be great.

So Andy and Alice gave us a lift back to Votsi. We were supposed to ring Germany to track down Gareth who is apparently in a caravan in Wales but we just got an ansaphone!

We asked the young guy in the shop in Votsi about accommodation and he says he may know somewhere - we'll see him in the morning. Later Layla saw us and invited us in for a drink. She said this man (another Jorgos) is the heir to this house in Votsi that is owned by a South African woman.

Walking home at about 9pm. after making a phone call to Dave and Di in blighty (who are well - no other news) we chatted to Magda from the Taverna. It transpired that they have rooms with kitchens and (another Jorgos) said we could have one for 60,000 a month if we stay till September. Bear in mind they speak no English. Jane was excellent having learned enough words to make clear what we wanted. We'll see them 'Avrio Merra' - tomorrow morning. No problem! The first Jorgos and Maria came down to say we had messages and that Pakis has found us a house and Peg and Dave et al are coming on Friday at 10.30.

Had a long chat with Emanuel from Athens who has to leave tomorrow. He's an English teacher which explains his excellent language skills. Hey! Full day!

9.6.95

Been a bit too busy to write here hence no entry for yesterday. We woke with several seemingly good prospects for accommodation and felt positive that today we'd find somewhere to live. We walked the two and a half miles to Patitiri and spoke to Pakis. He told us that Phillipe at Megala Mortia (a beach about two and a half miles further on) has two apartments in Chora (the old Town or village depending on who you’re talking to) and wants 50,000 dr. per month. Sounds great. We figured he'd close in the afternoon so we thought we'd go and check our Votsi options first and go to Megala Mortia later if necessary. We both feel that given a choice we would prefer to live in Votsi among local Greeks, near the sea.

Strike 1. Jorgos the shopkeeper told us that his friends (who we know to be his South African benefactor) has arranged for people to come in August so he could not rent us the house. Shame 'cos Janet said it was nice and it was cheap.

Strike 2. Jane's language skills of last night down at the Taverna were challenged. Jorgos showed us several rooms in Votsi harbour at varying prices from 4,000 a day to 2,000. The last room had kitchen, shower and was quite big (well, as holiday rooms go). So Jane knocked him from 3,000 to 2,000 a day which is 60,000 a month. With a smile and a hand shake we sealed the deal. Then I indicated that we'd like to move in right away and should I help him move the spare bed out and then suddenly the horrible truth dawned .When Jane said we wanted it for at least three months until September, he thought we meant from September when, of course, the season is over so rooms are cheaper. On Alonissos and most Greek Islands they work on forty days; mid-July to end of August, when they have to make enough money for the year. No way was he letting us have a cheap room at this time. S**t!!!

We're getting a bit deflated now. Still, we've got Gareth’s place and Phillipe’s apartment.

So off we trot again back to Patitiri (another two and a half miles, and bear in mind it's getting well hot now at about 12.30. So on through Patitiri and follow the road along the coast to Megala Mortia. Nice walk through trees, looking down on the coast from time to time, past "Disco Rocks!" It took about 35 mins but we were hot so we plunged straight into the clear, calm sea.

Phillipe has a taverna on the beach front (there are two more close by). We found him. Very good English and a friendly man. He said he had to work until about 6pm before he could take us to see the rooms. No Problem! We hit the beach for the first time in days. We were a bit worried that he was surprised when we said we wanted it at least till September.(he'd been told 5 months by Pakis) Oh dear - that means he'll want more than 50,000!

Five hours on a beach is a long time for me and we didn't have our facilities like snorkel, books etc. so - I admit it - I was getting a bit bored. There's so much to write I can hardly be bothered to mention the very boring Laskarina man (he had his bag. Sometimes it’s pretty easy to spot a Laskarinian but when they carry the Laskarina bag….) we overheard him boring two people to death about all the islands he'd seen, the sand flies (for which he'd actually bought a plastic fly swatter) and other Alonissos info we knew to be wrong.

Anyway we sat in Phillipe’s Taverna drinking our water (giving him the impression of real big spenders. NOT)

At 6pm Phillipe drove us up the long, rough track to Chora in his VW van. We parked on the edge of the village 'cos the tracks are far too narrow and steep for anything other than a donkey. He showed us his two apartments both of which were spacious and quite well equipped.

Strike 3 (but not out yet!). He wants 80,000 per month plus electricity which is another 5,000, in all £255.00 per month. S**t, damn, bu**er. He would let us have it cheaper if we stayed after September. We told him we'd think about it but we knew it was more that we could safely afford especially as we don't know if we have a tenant at home yet. So although we've only been at this two days we, certainly I, was beginning to question whether we could afford to stay even just for the summer. So we called in on Andy and Alice to let them know how we were doing and to get any news on our last option at the moment - Gareth's house. "No problem" they said, "We've found you a house and it's cheaper than Gareth’s......" (stands back in shock!). It all happened very quickly then. Alice took us down to meet Buck He took us up to the top of the Chora and showed us this small house (reached only by path). Most little properties around it are derelict or empty. The house is just a big shell, four walls about 12 x 15 ft. Just inside the door is a small loo (shower off to the left) It looks like someone’s outside loo with rough, unpainted cement work on the walls but the loo flushes and there is cold water to the shower. Downstairs the room has a typical Greek fireplace in one corner and a sink in the other. There's a fridge and cupboard and a table, a few shelves on the wall, stone steps lead round the side of one wall past the doors to a little roof terrace, to the bedroom which is basically a wooden floor (a mezzanine) about half the size of the downstairs with a rail on the side so you can look down into the rest of the house. Several windows with wooden shutters. It was dirty and in a right mess with building bits and pieces and junk lying around. Oh and it's got electric light (2) and a calor gas 2 burner cooker. Buck said we could have it for 45,000 per month (about £135) We did not hesitate to say we'll take it so Buck gave us the key. RESULT! We just made the 7.15pm bus which dropped us off at the edge of town and walked back to our room in Votsi. We told Jorgos our plans and asked if he could get us a taxi. His smile (which had been missing - the one he keeps for tourists) returned. I think he thought we were going to try and stay there longer and give him hassle about prices.

We thanked them all for their help (which wasn't anything really but they were nice) and stuffed our gear into a taxi. As we walked down to the taxi a couple were passing and the bloke commented on my guitar saying he played too. They were Australian and we figured it must have been him we had heard tinkling on an instrument in the evenings in our rooms. I told them I hoped to do a bit of singing in the village so suggested they come up. We were in our new house by 8.30pm and we were chuffed to bits.

We had to make it useable so spent until 11.30pm cleaning the bedroom (and bed which was mildewed) and getting the downstairs functional. By then it had started to look like our home and we were knackered. We rigged up Annette and crashed out.

9.6.95

Didn't sleep too well (both of us) partly 'cos of 'new home nerves' and partly 'cos the bed dips in the middle. So we chucked the bed against the wall out on the terrace and put the mattress on the floor (which I swept again - fear of little biting things).

Peg, Dave, Laurie and Yvonne were day-tripping to Alonissos from Skopelos today so Jane went to meet the ferry and get some supplies before coming back up with them on the bus. I cleaned the rest of the house - removing all cobwebs and dust and scrubbing the stone floor. by the time they got back it was looking like home. They all loved it and took loads of photos (which will be nice 'cos Jane discovered the thirty photos we'd taken had been done with no film in the camera - donkey!)

Buck and his wife Marion came back up with me and raided the empty house opposite for a blanket, a nice pine table and I got a box of books. They held the key for the owner who has both houses. What nice people. I won't hear a bad word said about Buck and Marion! Andy told me later that Buck had liked us and said we would be "ornaments to the village". God knows what he means. I met Jane and the others for a bit of lunch in the Taverna where Layla sells her paintings so we were able to bring her up to date. Laurie and Yvonne bought a painting. Layla told us that when Jane and I had gone to get our beach things they'd done their bill haggling routine. I guess it’s the name of the game.

We all walked the long road that winds down from the old town or Chora to Megala Mortia and flopped on the beach for the afternoon. We left them all to find their own way back, having said good-bye to them all. We’ll miss Peg and Dave. We walked up the long road to Chora. It's steep, it's long and it was only about 5.30pm and still very hot. By the time we reached Chora I literally felt like collapsing. We'd run out of water and I hadn't had much anyway - bad mistake, especially after the hectic running around we’d been doing over the past day or so. Rule one; you don’t go anywhere without a bottle of mineral water. Still I was OK after a rest.

We played house some more. We used the solar shower which is a black plastic bag with a small shower fitting on the end. You just fill it with water and leave it in the sun all day and hey presto, a hot shower. Not a huge amount of water pressure but hey! Ours was just warm though 'cos we left it a bit late. I went to see Andy and Alice to thank them for helping us out with Buck and the house. I arranged to go round tomorrow night and get working on the music. Andy agreed that we need to be open about how we feel it's working.

I met Jane in Phillipe’s (a different one. You get used to many people here having the same name. A bit like Wales; Jones the Butcher, Jones the Post, Dai this, Dai that etc) where Layla was doing an evening shift on the paintings and had brought Jenny with her. She bought some wine for Jane 'cos we'd brought her luck today. One painting to Laurie and Yvonne and another punter later.

10.6.95

Slept much better with the mattress on the floor. Boiled some water and we both did some laundry in a big bowl on the floor. You don’t really need a tumble dryer here. It's so good to finally have everything unpacked in a normal place.

We walked to Patitiri on the old donkey track which was beautiful but somewhat spoilt by the constant pestering of bees and bugs all the way down. They have these big flying beasts with (I kid you not) florescent green eyes and they don’t go away they just slowly circle you waiting for a place to land and, no doubt, bite you hard. (spot the townies) Jane was in a living hell - still, we got down quicker. The old donkey path was soon better known to us as bee alley. Saw Marty in passing and asked if he had any nails. He got some pliers from the moped hire office and pulled several nails out of various telegraph poles for us. We shopped. Again it feels like we're now 'living' here 'cos we can now buy things like pepper, herbs, tomato paste, without the fear of having to squash it in our bags to move on. No - we're now resident in Chora Alonissos.

We spoke to Darren again who we met with Marty yesterday. The girl he was with, Marina, works in a taverna in Chora and says they may need another waitress soon. May be a possibility for Jane. Layla came up to see us and really liked our house.

Jane and I had a 'home base' day . I spent the time tidying up the terrace, pulling out dried up weeds and putting bits of wood and an old oil drum all in one corner to make some space for us to sit out on the roof. We used our solar shower which was a bit warmer, then went to Alice and Andy's for my first rehearsal. We bought a bottle of wine 'cos without them we may not have our house. The rehearsal was laid back and a bit erratic for my liking but it was quite good fun. We do songs I'm not that familiar with like "Take a load off Annie" - I think it's called the 'Weight' . Jane thought we were singing "Take a loaf off Annie" I was mainly doing guitar solos (Chalky would laugh) and harmony vocals which are sounding OK when I know the words. I don't like some songs Andy does like "I am not in love" - Love and affection - Joan Armartrading. His voice suits the more raunchy songs. We briefly decided that we'd do a split set like; I do a set, Andy does his funny songs then we all come together for the covers. We got into discussion on where we should be playing. Usual 'Band' stuff. I didn't get too involved just saying I want to do some stuff on my own too. We left late and got to bed by 2 am which is apparently early for them.

11.5.95

Woke up early but got up late. Wrote several letters before taking the guitar down to Phillipe’s at the edge of the Chora where Layla sells paintings. Great gig. Kevin the Ozzy turned up with his guitar and we alternated songs. He does bluesy, roots stuff on his Martin back-packer which is a perfectly formed little travelling guitar. Really good and we clicked together. Marty arrived and got his bongos and we played all afternoon. Andy even came up and we did some stuff together. It was almost folk clubbish. We’d got nice applause. Phillipe apparently spoke to Jane and offered me a meal but she ordered a salad 'cos she knew I wasn't hungry. Some Belgians bought us drinks and they bought five of my tapes. Result. There's no denying, Phillipe’s place was definitely busier than usual 'cos people had heard the music. He wants me to do some lunch times, definitely Wednesday, maybe Sunday too. We haven't talked money yet but it's feeling damn good. Kevin and his partner Sue, Layla and Jenny and later Steve, came back for coffee. Kevin and Sue are travelling for a year. They have been in USA and will be here for five weeks, then UK then Europe. They both work in nursing/special needs/human rights environments and are clearly 'kindred spirit' material. We both really like them.

We went out to the Taverna where Marina works. She's dead nice and gave us some language tips (food was good too). Her friend Darren remembered that Jane was looking for jobs and passed a message through Layla that Megala Mortia Beach needs someone to rent out the sun loungers on the beach. This is Jane's dream job!! As a fully fledged sun worshipper she had said before coming here that her ideal employment would be…… We'll go down in the morning. Jane's having a quiet night in. I'm off to rehearse again with the boys.

[later]

We walked down to Megala Mortia beach to see about the beach bed job. (not so many buzzing things today). Hey! Jane's a working girl! She will work from 11am to 7pm and all she's got to do is take money off people using loungers and parasols. She'll get 3.000drs. a day plus and extra 10,000drs. at the end of each month. The guy will give her a lift up the hill - or someone will - and she starts tomorrow!! Reeesult!

That's nearly double what we pay rent. I lay on the beach while she negotiated. He (Homer) wants her to be there at 6.30pm tonight to learn what to do!! I knew her Diploma in Social Work qualification would come in handy! I found out later that I'd burnt a bit on the beach. Naughty. That's really the first mistake [see 4.6.95] I thought I didn't need cream. So I left Jane there and walked the bottom road to town. It was nice and breezy with a fair bit of shade at 4.30ish. Took me about 35 - 40 mins. We needed shopping but the butchers and fruit shops don't open till 6.30. I could have waited and got the bus up at 7pm but it was only just 5pm. Jane had said to treat myself to a taxi but Nah! I walked up the old donkey track (that we'd battled with bees on the way down the other day). Again, it was quite cool and I didn't get pestered until near the top when things got a bit frantic. I had a pine branch that I was flapping about but I couldn't even stop for a drink 'cos those fluorescent green, big bastards were after me.

I met the two German people we’d first met above the Ecstasy Bar in Skopelos. We've seen them around and often chat to them. They said we could stay with them if we travel back through Europe. Klaus and Gudren live in Frankfurt. She may be back here for two weeks in September so we swapped addresses.

It was so funny this morning. Chora is getting steadily busier in the days and people wander round the tiny streets taking photos. Two Greek women from mainland Greece were passing and our door is always open so they asked if they could come in (and see a quaint peasant house). she called up the lane and we had four people wandering up the stairs checking it out. We thought there was a coach party with them. If we were in England we'd probably charge them and give them some architecture bulls**t. I phoned my parents tonight and got the answer phone. Still, I got all our news in on the tape. The phone cards here are effective but the units go quickly. We won't be phoning too often.

Steve popped in. He's doing a sign for the taverna down the road where the owner has lived in New York for two years and plays bazouki. I've seen him playing it and planned to try and get a lunch time gig there tomorrow.