My god its September!. That happened quickly. Jane was up early . I slept till 9am then went to town on a mail run. No!! I mentioned to Nikkos (who sold us Skilos) that we’d be selling the bike at the end of the month and guess what. He didn’t say ‘I’ll have it off you for 80,000dr!" Other Nikkos (Paraport) said he’d be coming round to take away Monty’s spiral staircase (he’s bought it off Monika), so after tea at Andy and Alice’s, I went home to wait for him, while Jane went up to the old house to finish off. Nikkos is a lovely man. Not an islander! He’s leaving on Sunday to go back to Athens. I joined Jane at the old house and she’d done all the cleaning and tidying up. The village was very quiet today and Zorba’s is the first to close at lunch times. We carried remaining borrowed bits down to Andy and Alice’s then spent the afternoon with them at our (Monika’s) house while Andy tried to fix the stereo. We talked about what we might do when we get home. At the moment that’s not an exciting prospect but I know its just laziness. Self employment got the vote but in what! Who knows.

I went back up to the old house to sweep, finish defrosting the fridge and collect Layla and Steve’s blankets which we took down to Votsi on Skilos. They were out so we shopped a bit then came home. We tried to watch a video ‘The man who would be king’ but the telly kept turning itself off. Alice lent us some films. All Monika’s are in German (how thoughtless of her).

2.9.95

I got up with good intentions of doing Neville’s little woodwork jobs. His ex-wife (Emma’s mum) is staying in the big house where his tools are and she was out. His sister and friend are in the little house and "didn’t know you were coming". So I just surveyed the job, found Anna (Emma’s mum) and arranged to go on Tuesday. She clearly didn’t want me to spoil the tranquillity of her stay, though I assured her I was very discreet.

We returned the old house keys to Buck who told us off for washing the linen. We thanked him and Marion for their help and they said ‘We kinda like you two’. We walked up to Phillipe’s for a drink and to ensure that Layla got her blankets. She told us more stories of how brilliant Jenny is (she is cute) and showed us Steve’s new painting. He’s got a laser print of the one we like (which is not for sale) The print (called Limited) is 12000dr. That’s £36

We’re getting good at siesta which we did till tea time. Then we got ready to go to Agnes’s cocktail party. We were told 7.30pm

At 8pm we were the only ones there, so helped her put seats out on her little roof. Great view, one of the highest spots in the village. The air was still and the sun went down red over Skopelos behind our hill, casting a golden glow over the sea and the outlying islands. Evia was clear to see (usually its hazy) and behind it we could see smoke from what seemed to be a fire on the mainland, miles away. As it grew darker we could see the orange glow of the flames on the skyline. Must have been huge. Anyway the cocktail do wasn’t as disastrous as its potential. In fact it was very pleasant. Lots of people we know turned up. Olivia and Frank, Bernadette without Arcamedes, Janis and pal, Renee. We met Buck’s son, Rusty and his wife Gabby. We left at 9pm cos I was playing at Paraport with Andy. Interestingly, most of the party guests arrived at Paraport shortly after us. It was a nice friendly gig. Yanis and Elmer and son were their with Marty. Monty and Claudette, Karin and daughter. Monty was funny. Marty said we’d have to find a place to play. Monty said we could play at their house, a party, he said Marty could play bongo’s and Monty would make a fool of himself playing guitar. We all hung around chatting till midnight. Nikkos and family came. They leave tomorrow. He bought our table drinks to celebrate his sons christening next week in Volos. Constantine the Great!! Tea at Andy and Alice’s on the way home where we assassinated various characters (as you do).

3.9.95

We slept in the other bedroom last night, Monika’s bed is so uncomfortable. We checked it out yesterday, and someone had put some dodgy looking props under the bed board which gave a very uneven sleepscape. So we moved next door and I had my first good nights sleep here.

As the summer goes on and we are now clear about leaving at the end of the month, we have relaxed (even further) into a very lazy time. This is helped by our new accommodation which has everything we need, which isn’t much. Its very private though so we can loll about naked to read or sleep or whatever. Jane slept for 3 hours this afternoon then we went down to Micro at about 4.30pm. Very few people there and nudism again rules. Janis came down with the dog (who nearly mounted Jane!!) We left as the sun went down over the hills and got home by 7. We’d decided on a rare meal out at Paraport cos we felt we owed Elias that as he’d let us sing there. Very good cheese potato starter followed by good enough grilled stuff.

We made a visit to Marty who is now spending his evenings working in Elmer’s antique shop.

Coffee on the terrace looking at the view trying and failing to get poetic about the slate grey sea glowing gently under a still moon. Faint strains of unidentifiable music drifting up to us on the cool September breeze………….hey not bad!! Wish I’d said that on the terrace.

4.9.95

I’m getting bored writing my diary (not as bored as anyone reading it!!). Up at 9, town by 10ish, one letter off Bunny, saw Steve, Arcamedes, Marianne, shopped bought hinges for Neville’s, home, read all afternoon. Walked to Maria’s, tea etc.

We decided to walk out to the end of the island to see the sunset over Skopelos. But it was too cloudy for a good one. On the way back we walked through a herd of 30 or 40 goats. A little nervous there as the inquisitive goats were just a bit too pushy!! We called in on Andy and Alice and had tea while listening to Gavin James’ tape (he is a Welsh folk singer who’s nearly stayed on here).

5.9.95

I actually did a morning’s work!! It nearly killed me! Emma’s mum (Neville’s ex-wife) was out but I found her in the village and she gave me keys to the house. I got out Neville’s tools and used his old bits of wood to construct a little wooden frame and door to the little water pump house at the side of the small house. It was quite easy actually though, its hardly quality craftsmanship. I fitted three hinges and the brass hook Neville had given me, then I found the oil under the sink and oiled all the wood with a paint brush. I even had time to re-assemble the broken bench with glue and nails. The whole job took me about three and a half hours but it was all done in the hot morning sun so I was knackered by the time I took the keys up to Renee , who looks after the house. Janis was there too and we chatted about Renee’s years with Virgin Records in Germany. She’s going to try my tape on some old contacts. Why not?

I had to sleep after all that work. By 4pm it was looking cloudy and it even rained a bit. We went out on Skilos to nose at Jan’s house on the opposite hill. They’ve been building it for years. We couldn’t find it and the paths got dodgy for Skilos so we decided to drop in on Monty and Claudette instead. They were in and we stayed chatting for ages before they suggested we all have some pasta. I skilossed home to get our bread, garlic and fresh basil. I got all the way there before realising that Jane had the keys so I did the short but bumpy journey twice. We had a really nice evening and didn’t leave till about 11.30pm.

6.9.95

We walked into Patitiri and shopped. Had a chat with Olivia who told us about her family and the young man who was with her mum and brother is her mum’s lover! ½ her age! Good on her! Olivia and Frank got married here last year having lived here for 8 years. We had a fax from my mum this afternoon. Jane has a pain in her stomach like a cramp.

Had another afternoon reading and relaxing. Jane felt better after a sleep. Janis came round with a letter and some great photos that Matthew had taken here. Excellent lightening storm all around the island but not actually on it. The wind really kicked up though. We went to Paraport but it was too blowy (and empty), so we had a cup of tea at Andy and Alice’s. Alice came out with one of her lovely sayings with mixed up translation. She said someone had told her to bless her countings!! Her English is so good it seems really funny, when she gets them wrong. Her father died yesterday. She’s OK. We talked about it a lot. She was telling us about a fortune teller she’d seen a few times who predicted a lot of things. Alice’s knows she’ll live a long life.

7.9.95

Lazy day (Surprise!) I phoned home and spoke to John and Joan this morning to confirm that we would be looking for a flight back on the last weekend of September.

Eventually we went down to Micro. Its beautiful down there now that its re-established as a nudist beach. Very few people. The days are very hot at the moment and its lovely down on Micro at the end of the day with a gentle breeze and the sun slowly dipping down behind the hill. Unfortunately, we saw a few jelly fish which always knocks your confidence when swimming.

Went down to Paraport again. This time the weather was normal, though there weren’t many people there. I sat down to sing and did quite a long set. I wasn’t that happy with my songs - maybe I’ve just played them too much or maybe it was the two girls who kept asking for songs I don’t know and only clapped when they did know one. Never mind. I sold one tape and made just under 4000dr in all. Monty and Claudette came and we chatted to them for ages. Good cat fight right in the middle of the pathway! Paraport cat won.

We went to town on Skilos today. Well……….he deserved a bit of petrol! And its lucky we did cos there was a fax! Picking up faxes is an art these days cos Pakis, who runs Ikos Travel, put a sticker on the folder about a month ago saying - 500dr each fax (we assume he means page). Recently someone crossed on of the noughts off, but we take no chances. Its like a covert military operation. We sit in a nearby taverna, wait till lots if tourists are in there clucking about day trips and generally occupying the staff. Then we wait for Pakis to be out, usually when a Dolphin is in. Then Jane, who’s a little less conspicuous than me, nips in and looks in the folder, ripping out any relevant pages. Worked well today and we had a four pager (could’ve cost a fortune) from Cathy.

BIG NEWS !!! Cathy and Dave have sold their business and are taking a year off!! They are going to their house in Portugal for a month (at least) on Oct 1^st. So we knew there and then that we’d have to go home before this. Our minds have even moved forward quite quickly to the strong possibility of joining them in Portugal for a few weeks. So we checked out flight prices in one place and were quoted 35000dr (sure we could do better) and are now looking at leaving on 22^nd September. Gosh! Suddenly we know we have only two weeks left here. Feels odd after five months of no certainty about anything. Its exciting!

Jane made her very nice pasta, hard boiled egg, curry salad for Monty and Claudette’s "Party" later. We dropped stuff off at Andy and Alice’s who were giving us a lift down, then went to ring Cathy and Dave………………who were out.

Eventually we went to the "Party". I say "party" cos it wasn’t really a party it was more a gathering of people. Twelve in all. It puts a completely different perspective on it if its called a "Party". People expect ……………something. Something more than a few pals sitting around eating. (Jane’s pasta was best - though Alice’s muffins were, as always, great).

I enjoyed the do. We got home at 4am!! Gorgeous full moon so we had tea on the terrace before bed.

9.9.95

Woke up at 8am, back to sleep till 10ish. Back to sleep till 12.40pm!! Feeling a bit better now.

Went to Micro at about 3.30ish. Emma and Mum and Marianne were there. Janis and Alexandria and Yanis came later as did Monty. Clear, calm sea, beautiful for swimming and perfect for skimming stones. Must have been quite a sight, 3 stark naked men skimming stones across the bay.

We dropped Eva’s song book back to her on the way to the Paraport gig. Paraport was quiet and "be sure - No" was waiting tables. It turns out that Elias started feeling faint and sick so he had to go home. Good team spirit, I thought, from Be sure - No. Anyway there was little motivation to sing, so we had a drink and went home for a reasonably early night.

Into town to see if Jan can sort a cheaper flight for us. In Jan’s office was Sheila who was Laskarina rep when we were on Halki, 2 years ago. She’s a sort of supervisor now and is here because……….. (Shock Horror!) Jan is leaving Laskarina next week and is training the new boy Simon. We don’t know the full gossip but Janis says that Sandra is also leaving so it must be something political. Anyway, she said that she couldn’t do any cheaper than 3500dr and would only be able to do six days notice.

I siesta’d cos I was tired (good reason). After tea we walked out to the end of the island to watch the sunset. On the way Layla and another woman said we’d missed it. We said "Nah" and went anyway……………..we missed it! But we’re not going to admit it. Some people always have to be right!

We stayed in playing cards, listening to records (crap ones like Maria Callas).

11.9.95

Jane was up early again. I got up at 9am again feeling like I’ve been camping. We’re off to town to book our tickets. (We need to go back to confirm). Patitiri feels more like it did back in June/July. Not as many people and quite a relaxed air. The local kids sign up for school again today, so I guess that influences peoples schedules. In the village the place in the square has closed aswell as Zorba’s and Nic’s. We popped in on Andy and Alice, Janis was there getting a cassette player mended by Andy.

We went to Micro where we spent a few hours with Monty and Claudette. We called in for a drink (and to get the sport pages of their Sunday Times).

We actually got to see the sunset tonight. It was …………………..OK! No poems. An Italian couple also arrived on the concrete platform at the end of the island to take photos. Its a bit niffy there cos they used to back a truck up on the platform and dump all the island rubbish into the sea. From there we went to Phillipe’s to show Layla our photos of Steve’s party. She bought us a drink. Later we were joined by Hank (Ali’s gone home so he eats out now) and a couple from Lancaster. He was an ex-seaman.

We went to make some calls about flights but we didn’t have the numbers with us. I completely believed Jane who said she gave them to me, so I turned the house upside down until she found them in her pocket. HA!

Jane reckons she’s on to a winner. She "lets me play old records" whilst she lays back and has her feet massaged. She fell asleep while I listened to Simon and Garfs Sound of Silence. Crap Album!

12.9.95

Its our 8^th Wedding Anniversary today!

Jane was up early again and cooked bacon, egg, bread and toms, when I got up at 9.30. "A Romantic Celebration" breakfast. 8 years! We made it through the 7 year itch. Maybe coming here for the summer WAS our 7 year itch!! Went to town but still no flight confirmation. Skilos ran onto reserve tank and has been losing power since. Blocked carby? Typical for vehicle of ours to wrong just as we’re trying to flog it.

Janis and Alexandria came round. Janis had bought us a little box of chocs and a card cos we must’ve mentioned our anniversary. She said she’s impressed with anyone who goes more than 2 years. Very nice of her. A has invited us for a nose bag on Thursday. Then we Siesta’d.

Monika’s house really is too big for us. I was sitting on the top terrace while Jane had a shower. She came out to hang her towel up and cautiously looked around to make sure no-one could see her naked. She saw me and jumped a mile - I guess she wasn’t expecting me to be there. Laugh? I nearly wet myself. We went up to Andy and Alice’s on our way out for a meal: Part anniversary celebration, part "thank you" to them both for all the help we’ve had including getting us Monika’s house for our last few weeks. Alice had made us an impressive looking cake, garnished with these purple flowers and a candle in the shape of a number 8. (Also they’d collected 5 letters for us, Neil, Chalky, Gail, Mum’s photos and Doug and Bette).

Andy presented us with a bamboo wind chime he’d made from canes he found near the dump (he knows our sentimental ties to the dump). Really nice of them both. The ups and downs of our musical ventures have not got in the way of the fact that Andy and Alice have been really good company throughout the summer. Alice is one of the most generous people I know.

We went to the Ouzeri in Patitiri and sat upstairs. We moved tables cos one became free on the edge of the balcony so we could look down on the street below. (it was busy!) People on the next table left the remains of their meal including prawns and dolmades which we discreetly nicked! We had a really nice evening.

13.9.95

Letters off Bob and from Simone. No confirmation likely on flights till Saturday. I finally finished my Robert Ludlum book …………it was OK! Jane slept. We went to Micro. Monty and Claudette were there. We met Roger. Andy and Alice came. We stopped at Monty and Claudette’s and washed Skilos so that I can try and flog him tomorrow. He looked damn smart actually.

Played Paraport, sob, for the last time. Quite sad really. Sad cos there was only about 8 people there. Still, they all seemed to enjoy it and I got well into singing. Made 980dr! a record low at Paraport. Janis and Alexandria were there with the dog who was tied to the table. Romulus the dog arrived and ruthlessly attacked Sarras. All hell broke loose resulting in Janis booting Romulus (who but the Rommel in Rommelus?) We bought some pictures off Bende. Prints for Cathy and the Shipps. We wanted a postcard of the Paraport print but she only had larger ones which we couldn’t really afford. Later she came back and suggested a swap for one of my tapes. Good deal. I’ve sold a fair few but there are still plenty left.

14.9.95

Will he go or will he stay? That’s the question we were asking ourselves about old Skilos.

I took him to town to try and sell him (a bit like Jack and the Beanstalk - I promised I try not to come home with a handful of beans) I went back to the guys who sold him to us first as he’s still actually in their name. Dimitris was there and I said we would be leaving next week. He said "Good". I’m sure it was just a translation thing! He laughed a lot as I broached the subject of selling Skilos and I really wondered why I was bothering. He said he thought we were clever cos others had paid lots in hire fees. I pointed out that it was our only option and that we did take a risk that Skilos could’ve died on us. He laughed when I said we’d be happy with 50,000dr and I was about to leave, when he said "maybe 40,000dr" I said "OK". He asked me to leave it there and pick up the money later. Fair enough. We were convinced he’d say there was something wrong and he’d only pay 30,000dr. I went down at 6.30pm. We sat and had a fag. He asked me some small talk questions. I gave him the book back. But the sod made me sweat and didn’t cough up until I said "Have you got some money for me?" But cough he did - 40,000dr. I had to restrain myself from doing a lap of honour. Effectively we’ve had a moped for 300dr a day which is about 80p REEEESULT!!!

Had a very nice evening with Alexandria at the lovely house she’s staying at in the village. Janis helped her do the food Marty and Maria were there and Monty and Claudette came (late). Very civilised, very pleasant eating out at a long table in a walled grapevined courtyard.

15.9.95

First day without Skilos. It was tough but…………….we made it through! No really, I walked into town to get some shopping. I like walking. Its a lovely walk down the old donkey track (now that the green-eyed flying buzzing bastards have gone). The buses have limited their timetable again (I noticed they still charge 200dr though) . The next one wasn’t for over an hour though, so I started walking the road way home. I got about a third of the way up when, Roger stopped in his jeep and gave me a lift. Called into Andy and Alice’s thinking Jane would be there but they hadn’t been up when she called. I had a tea anyway and changed carrier bags, cos I’d broken an egg all over my shopping. Alice had a bad migraine so I didn’t stay long. Andy has bought a harpoon gun. Jane has got a hangover today, so we had a quiet afternoon which suited me cos I’m knackered with all this walking!

We went for a little stroll to Monty and Claudette’s to take back some books and give them some herbal tea bags. It was clear that it was not a good time to visit as they were about to have a meeting with Tony the architect about their land boundaries and where they can build out to etc. Tony’s done excellent drawings for them even including people doing things. So we had a quick drink and left ‘em to it. Monty has said we can stay in their new place next summer if we paint it and fit kitchens and stuff. We said we’d let them know by February. We walked up the path and back round to the village to buy drinks for tonight. We reckon we saw an eagle earlier. It was huge and on its own. We went up to Andy and Alice’s at 9pm for a meal. Janis was there too. The food was absolutely superb, schnitzels with yummy potato salad, pasta and green salad. Andy suggested we do one more Paraport and forget the hat. We all had a long talk about friendships and Alice was saying how she hates to be on her own and would rather spend time with Andy than anyone else so sees no reason to make friendships just for herself. We stayed till 1.30am and it was a really nice evening.

16.9.95

I guess it would be unrealistic to think that our Summer could possibly end with a simple "Goodbye" and a convenient flight home. We went into town (on foot) to try and sort out return flights. Alonissos Travel were unable to give us a clear answer for the 22^nd cos the right person was out of the office in Skiathos but the operator they deal with is apparently full. Drossakis Travel had worse news. Apparently its been illegal for two years to sell one way tickets on charter flights but everyone has always done it. Its seems that many flights have been over subscribed and yesterday all people with one way tickets were pulled off flights. Michilla has been told to cancel all one way bookings she’s made. This was confirmed by Simon and Sheila from Laskarina who also think their seat allocation is full on the 22^nd. There’s no telling yet how thoroughly this law is to be enforced but it may mean we have to go to Athens, where there’s more choice and less chance that the authorities will enforce it. How exciting ………………….NOT!

I went up to the square later to phone the numbers we have for Skiathos Tour Operators. Looks like all flights to UK next week are booked. Our only hope of a Skiathos flight is if Laskarina have any spaces which we won’t confirm till Monday.

Jane had collected material from Alice to make some earrings cos Janis wants a pair. I did a few more non productive calls to Skiathos then called in on Layla at Phillipe’s to get the numbers for Athens that Steve said he’d leave. Anyway, I phoned one number in Athens which I got from Layla’s paper and it looks more likely that we’ll try to fly from there.

We walked down the old path, past Elmer’s shop, to Micro Mortya, first time we’ve done this and it was a nice walk even though it was a little overgrown. (snake territory in Jane’s mind). There were two people on the beach but a woman passing us had warned of jelly fish and sure enough there were lots of them. Too many to risk swimming and all very close into the shore. We didn’t stay long. The appeal being dashed by the swimming restrictions. So at about 3pm we walked up the road. It had been a bit cloudy but now it was really hot and we sweated profusely. Monty and Claudette were out so we couldn’t even have a ¾ way break. Got home and collapsed in a sweaty heap.

After tea we walked over to Monty and Claudette’s. Roger was there and has some Athens numbers for us to try. Claudette put a cotton braid in Jane’s fringe with a bead in the end. Her hair is still otherwise, very short. We helped move their 2 big antique pots into the house and then left about 9pm, having arranged to meet them later for a farewell drink at Mina’s bar.

We had a chat with Marianne and Yanis Astrofengia on the way into the Mina’s. I commented on how quiet it was. Yanis said he didn’t mind now cos the moneys in the bank. I paid 1000dr for a lemonade (from a carton) and a small Amstell. That’s over £3 compared to half that price anywhere else. Only a few people in Mina’s, including Monty, Claudette, Janis and Alexandria. Monty and I got caught up playing darts of all things! We were crap. We all left at about 1.30pm but will be able to say goodbye properly tomorrow in town.

18.9.95

Great sleep. Up at 10.00am. Jane and I walked into town to see if Laskarina Simon had any news of spare seats on Fridays flight, but he still doesn’t know. Said he’d leave a message for us this evening. I made it clear that we will take them if they’re spare. We checked out ferry times and Dolphin times to Athens and I tried a few Athens numbers but everyone is quoting 50,000dr + 6,000 tax and we have to call back for confirmation so its a bit tricky playing the field especially from a card phone. So we had to come back down again this evening. Skilos come back all is forgiven!! We saw Monty and Claudette before they left and Roger gave us some Athens agents. Then we got a bus back up to the village. We were the only ones on it. Costas, the friendly conductor only charged us one fare saying "its on the house". Had a quick cuppa with Andy and Alice who seem particularly down, particularly Alice. She said she spoke to Monika and we don’t have to ring her as Alice had suggested. Jane had not stayed cos Janis was due to look at the earrings Jane had made. I got home as Janis and little Marianna (who she looks after) were leaving having bought a pair of earrings and delivered a tape letter from Bob. Bob’s music/comedy tapes have kept us amused all summer and introduced me to some new music.

We walked down to town again this evening to see if Simon had news of flight tickets. He wasn’t there and had left no message. We went up to the take-away and ate Gyro Pittas and chips at the tables outside. About as satisfying as a good fish and chip shop. More tasty though. We walked back down to Ikos Travel and Simon was there getting a little agitated as he hadn’t been able to get hold of his Skiathos contact and he needed to give him Fridays departure figures. It’s official. No flights available from Skiathos!! So we will go to Athens. We walked up the donkey path as the night drew in making it to the top with barely enough light. We tried a few Athens agent numbers who asked us to ring back tomorrow. What a surprise! So we decided we will just get a ferry to Athens and take pot luck on a flight! Hey, we’re travellers! Who needs advance bookings? We phoned Kathy to put her in the picture.

19.9.95

For a change...............I walked down to town! for the last time probably. I bought ferry and bus tickets to Athens and cashed cheques for 1000,000dr. We figured it will be easier to deal with cash. So suddenly its happened. We are going and personally I am excited to get back and see people we have missed. Its fizzled here a little bit, for us and for others, and we both feel the need to move on.

I got the bus up and told Steve our plans. Jane had begun sorting out the house. Both of us went up to the bus stop at 12.10pm so I could sing ‘Hotel California’ to Costas the Bus Conductor. All summer he’s mentioned this song since he saw me playing. I told him I’d learn it but I don’t think he really thought I would. When the bus pulled in he saw us waiting and was reluctant to come off the bus. Sod’s Law there were loads of people waiting to go down so he had really little time. But he came out and I sung part of the song for him and gave him one of my tapes thanking him for always been cheerful and friendly to us. He seemed quite moved.

I phoned home and left an ansaphone message of our plans. Steve came up saying that he hates good-byes so may not make it up for our last night drink tomorrow. He thanked me for the music. He also gave me one of his paintings of the old village, which was really nice of him. Steve was a good friend this summer.

Jane and I sorted out all our stuff and have more or less packed. Our bags are much lighter, thanks to Matthew and Emma taking stuff home for us and due to the crap we’re leaving here. I told Andy and Alice we were going and Alice said they’ll sort out a lift for us on Thursday. Our ferry’s at 6.15am! We cleaned a good deal of the house cos its been such a cloudy day - Yup! we’re ready to go.

After tea we took a pile of stuff up to Alice’s. Things they’d lent us like the cassette player and the videos that we never got to watch, clothes that Alice had leant Jane and a few things we didn’t want to take home. They were out so we left them on the doorstep. We walked up to Janis’s to tell her of our plans but of course she knew cos this is Alonissos. Andy and Alice were there cos Andy was exploring the problems Jane has with the electricity in Simon’s house. We left them to it and went to see Marty at the Antique shop. We were talking with a Brit couple and he was telling them how he got kicked out of the band. I had to point out his slight error. It made it much easier when he became unavailable but he was a victim of circumstance. There was no conspiracy it’s just that we could only play in Taverna’s and they didn’t want it too loud. From there we walked up to the top of the village which is now completely closed down. All tables and chairs stashed away. Its a ghost town. We called in on Arcamedes and Bernadette and had a drink and a laugh with them. Bernadette leaves for Canada on Monday, maybe with Arcamedes. We said we’d probably still be at Athens airport! Arcamedes said it was quite sad. We may never meet again. We’d said we’d write but I wonder if we really will.

20.9.95

We stayed in most of the day punctuating cleaning chores with last hope sunbathing on the terrace. Jane is still trying to get her bum tan the same as the rest of her body. Before I got up she went to Fat Maria’s for essential supplies. Fat Maria gave her a number in case we want rooms next year. I think I sat in the midday sun a bit too long for me and it made me tired.

We went up to see Andy and Alice, to confirm plans for tomorrow morning. Alice had already said that somehow they would get us to our 6.15am ferry. We weren’t surprised that they were out. They seem to be enjoying the quietness of the island and getting out and about a bit more.

They came round at about 7.30pm to give us the car keys so we can get ourselves to the ferry and leave the keys in the car for them. They said they didn’t want to come to Phillipe’s for a last farewell drink tonight which is fair enough. It was quite emotional saying goodbye to them and though none of us really had the words to say it I know we all played a big part in each others summer.

Jan (ex) Laskarina came with Hank and the dynamic Doncaster duo who I can’t remember the names of. Renee also came and later Marty and Maria. Marty’s still going on about getting me a publishing deal. We’d thought that Steve and Layla weren’t coming cos...well Steve said it, saying he didn’t like big good-byes. But bugger me, they all pulled up in a taxi at 10ish. It was so good to see them and it wouldn’t have been quite right if they hadn’t come. Earlier I gave Phillipe a tape and thanked him for letting me play there (although I hadn’t since early August). He was quite sweet later (My GOD! Read back to previous encounters) and asked about next year (probably hoping we wouldn’t be back). As I’ve said before, inspite of his misgivings I’ve always felt he was OK and let’s face it he may have hated my music.

A good night. Nice people. The last night of a cracking summer.

21.9.95

I’m writing this while sitting in Athens airport at 11.40pm. Nauseous from the smell of a young British girls daps that she’s just kicked off (I may burn them) and in a zombified state of weary bodied sleepless….. SHOCK!! Yes. I’m in shock.

The day started with a crap nights sleep which usually happens to me before, during and after any change in routine. We were out of bed at 5am and did the last hasty deeds at Monika’s before driving down to Patitiri for 6am. Still dark, cool but not cold. We boarded without a hitch. Infact, no one even looked at our tickets. The young and extremely beautiful Italian couple we’d met last night, were on board too and we chatted a bit to them. Not many others around. They changed at Skopelos. It was not a sad leaving at all. One of the good things about the 6.15am ferry is that there’s no bugger there to wave and get you all mushy. We looked at the island disappearing as the sun edged up into the wispy morning clouds casting a silver greyness to the ……………..uh……………slate grey sea.

I’ll never get this literary stuff. Anyway it was fine. In fact the ferry trip was great. Flat calm sea (hurrah for me – no sea sick pills) and we didn’t have to change, as expected at Skiathos. We had to hang around in Agio Constantino for ½ hour waiting for the bus cos the ferry was early.

We saw Vangelis there who we met on Alonissos. The bus trip was very nice too. Not too full, air conditioning, stopped half way for a civilised pee and fag break. It was interesting to observe Greek countryside other than island landscapes and facilities. Jane marvelled that they had……road signs and…………..tarmac!! Yes we felt we were being a bit patronising, but then we’ve only ever been to Greek Islands. There were cotton fields (yeah!) and many huge but boring advertising hoardings placed along the roadside though frankly I found them a pleasant distraction after a while. Its all dried mountains and olive trees. The landscape didn’t really come to life until we hit the edge of Athens itself. We had plenty of time to take it in cos we also hit pretty solid traffic.

The approach to Athens Centre is as unappealing as many famous cities but I really didn’t like it. Its actually very American, Neon, Square, boxy buildings and 5 mins in………….McDonalds! The outskirts were flat and boring peppered with identical 2 and 3 story apartment blocks. As the city thickened so the buildings grew to 7 or 8 stories all with those, probably effective, but aesthetically boring sun shades that each room on each floor pulls down over each window giving another aspect of bland uniformity to the scene. The traffic was as wild as……………..well, city traffic.

Suddenly the bus stopped at a seemingly non specific bus stop and everyone got off! So we did too. We’re travellers! We had a plan. Jane’s plan and it was brilliant. We were to park ourselves in a café then take it in turns to go and find travel agents then buy tickets. Easy! So we had a nice cuppa tea then followed the nice mans instructions and walked about ½ a mile up the road. God those bags are heavy, especially that f***ing guitar. Anyway! Travel Agents weren’t leaping out at us as promised and our task became drudgery. We spent the next 2 hours walking, parking, I’d run off and find a Travel Agent somewhere and report back ready to follow another lead. Basically………….oh shit, sprung to mind. NO charter flights at all until Sept 30th. I was offered one on Saturday for 88,000dr each or a normal Virgin airways flight for 104,000dr each. (assumes stunned zombie, open mouth pose) but not till next Wednesday.

We decided to take stock, find Wendy and Carr’s place and seek their advice. Jane bought a map. Their address was not on it. I went to ask advice from what I thought was a Tourist office, but our luck was in…….(I think!) It was also a Travel Agency. The only tickets from Athens to UK in the whole world…………go on Hungary Airlines through Budapest at 69,000dr each. I’ll tell you what its like tomorrow cos we’re doing it. We had no choice. We may not have even managed to find Wendy or Carr (being phoneless) and we would not have got out of Athens for days. So we’re in Athens its 5.30pm and our flight checks in at 4am tomorrow morning.

We asked the Tourist person where Wendy’s place was, and she said it was a long way on the outskirts of the City. She estimated a 2000dr taxi ride. We figure it would be worth seeing if they’re in so we could at least spend the evening with them. So we pick a nice clean taxi who says 2,500dr OK. We’ll take it. Then as we’re driving he realises he’s misheard us and where we want to go it a long way (Y E S) which is more like 4 or 5000dr, fine, we say - we’ll forget it. He says he’ll take us to the correct bus stop and points out the Acropolis on the way. (very nice it looked too). So we travelled about 2miles and he says its only 2000dr. We feel very strongly that he’s ripping us off but …………..we pay him! Why? Why did we? He even tried to give Jane change of 2000dr instead of 4000dr. Bastard! We should’ve said. But we’re British and we weren’t sure. Snivel. Never mind.

Plan B. Stuff Wendy and Carr’s (no offence W&A, ain’t got enough cash left, lets hit the airport and spend the night - as we do! After much discussion with several people we realised we had to go back to where we’d started to get an airport bus and the only way was in a taxi or walk. But we were ready this time. We said where we were going and we’d pay 500dr "whatever you like" he said. (Nice young man). We got chatting and he quoted 2000dr all the way to the airport. This is far cheaper than we’d been lead to believe so………….you know every cloud an all that. So here we sit…………….in complete discomfort. They’ve now got the cheek to have stickers all over the airport with a red circle, diagonal line through a person lying on the floor. "Lying on the floor is prohibited" Have you seen the chairs? About 10 hard blue plastic ones in the whole airport. No darkness, no bloody seats in the café, not even hot water in the taps and they say Lying on the………….of course, we ignore it but for how long. I notice 5 flights to check in between 3.15 and 4am That’s a lot of bodies lying on the floor, where will they put us all?

Its now 1.05am ………..oh…………New Day!

22.9.95

A woman is trying to mop the floor. She’s annoyed by the sleeping people and mops around them as if they are fixtures. She shoots deadly glances at unaware tourists who casually stroll over her freshly mopped tiles. They’re lucky I think, judging by the chill that comes over the armed police and other airport staff as they freeze in their tracks and make hasty detours when they notice, they are about to stop on the seemingly forbidden territory of her labours. I wonder what grief they’ve previously suffered to react like that. I can’t sleep (can you tell). I’ve finished my book so I’ll just keep boring my diary. We phoned Cathy who will meet us at Heathrow. Also we phoned my folks who won’t be around much till Sunday night, so we’ll stay at Cathy’s. Its now 9am Greek time but 8am here in Budapest airport where we have 3 hours to kill and no money......